FAQ
Engraving Forum Questions
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Registering is easy! Just visit this page to get started. You'll accept the terms of agreement and fill out some basic information to create your account. Within minutes, you will be able to start posting questions on the forum.
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Go to the main section of the forum. Click on the "New Thread" button. Write your post and when you finish, click the button that says "Submit New Thread."
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I have logged in, but every time I visit a new page it makes me log in again! What should I do?
It sounds like your browser is not letting the forum set a cookie to remember you. In order for the forum software to recognize you as a member so that you won't need to log in every time you return to the forum, be sure to click on the box that says "remember me" when you log in. This sets a cookie on your hard drive so that when you return, the forum logs you in automatically. The only reason to log out manually is if you share your computer with another person and you don't want them posting as you. An example of this might be using a public computer at the library. If the forum kicks you out immediately when you click on a new page and you have "remember me" checked, then your browser didn't let the forum software store the cookie. Look at the bottom of your browser window for a red circle with a line through it. That is telling you that the site was trying to set or read a cookie but your browser stopped it. Double click on the circle and a box will pop up. Select "accept cookie from this site."
Ordering Questions
May I pay with a credit card?
Yes, you may pay with your credit/debit card through PayPal. We also accept checks in the mail or wire transfer.
How can I find the shipping cost to my area?
Shipping costs vary widely depending on what you're ordering and where you are located. If it works for you, please use the shopping cart function on the site. It saves me time and makes it easier for customers to order. Click on the "add to cart" button near the items you'd like to order and navigate to the check out part of the shopping cart. There is a field to enter your zip code and it will calculate shipping automatically.
I already own a power hone. Should I still order a diamond bench stone with my sharpener?
We recommend that you order at least one diamond bench stone even if you have a power hone. Most people do not realize how easy it is to resharpen a dull or broken point with a 1200 or 2000 bench stone. I keep my power hone in the garage and only use it to rough a graver into shape, while the stone sits on my bench for refinements and touch-ups. The diamond stones really are very helpful but we sell fixtures and templates without them as an option for those who already own one or who prefer to work without them.
I don't own a power hone or bench stones. What should I order with my sharpening system?
You should order the bench stones. The most effective way to rough out a graver is using the power hone, but even then you still have to use the stones to smooth it out. You can get an adapter to go on a drill press (we sell the adapters on the same page as the hones) and this is a less expensive way to have a power hone. As long as you have a graver that has already been shaped once, however, using a sharpening stone will keep the the graver sharp for up to months at a time.
Product Questions
What is the difference between the Classic and Artisan handpieces?
The difference between the Classic and Artisan is the stroke collar. The stroke collar on the Classic provides the power and flexibility of several sized handpieces in one. It does this in a similar way to setting the back swing of a hammer hitting a punch: It can be set at a short back swing or a longer one. The PSI flow through the foot pedal or PalmControl then controls the power and speed within a given stroke length setting. The Artisan AirGraver on the other hand is always set at a mid-length swing. You can also think of it like gears in a car. Set the Classic in first gear (short stroke) and you have good low end delicate control. Set it in fifth gear and you can cut much deeper than in first gear. You can still cut delicate lines in fifth gear, but it is easier to do in first gear. In this analogy, the Classic has all five gears while the Artisan is fixed in third gear.
What is the difference between the AirGraver and the GRS engraving handpiece?
The GRS tool runs something like my father's old machine, a predecessor of the AirGraver. This type of design has a spring in the handpiece and runs with air pulses that are generated in a box that sits on your bench. The AirGraver doesn't require a separate box, just metered steady flow of air from a compressor or CO2 bottle. Pulses are instead generated in the handpiece itself, and because of this the tool is responsive throughout its power range. Another result of this difference is that the AirGraver has no background noise from a motor.
The length of stroke collar on the Classic handpiece has the additional advantage of providing a multitude of handpieces in one. Power is varied by a chosen stroke length setting (determined by the user changing the adjustment ring on the barrel of the tool) and by changing air pressure from the foot control or PalmControl (.5 psi to 70psi). Because the PSI and impact speeds of the AirGraver are always in sync there is no need to manually tune one with the other. The GRS handpieces, on the other hand, require manual tuning when either psi or speed is changed.
Our customers say that the speed and ease that the AirGraver makes cuts and removes metal is faster than that of the GRS handpieces. At the low end (because of the stroke adjustment) the AirGraver can also be set for very delicate, slow, controlled shading. I originally designed the tool to achieve this delicateness. Later on I figured out how to make the tool adjustable throughout its psi range and then patented that adjustable design.
Here are some various discussions on the engraving forum which may be helpful:
Lindsay or GRS System
The Lindsay or the GRS
Compressor Queries
Lindsay PalmControl and the GRS Airtact
PalmControl or Airtact?
I'm a beginner. What do I need to get started engraving?
One of your biggest resources is the Engraving Forum. This is a worldwide community of thousands of engravers, from beginners to professionals. By becoming a member of the forum, you can read discussions, ask questions, and post responses. Click here for a thread that contains lots of useful resources including books and videos.
You may be interested in one of our Engraving Sets. They contain everything you need to start engraving except an air compressor or CO2 bottle. One set-up comes with the foot pedal controller and the other features PalmControl. Both include a Classic AirGraver, a pack of graver blanks, the graver sharpening system, necessary tubing, wrenches, extra parts, and an owner's manual. To learn more about the AirGraver handpieces, click here.
My graver doesn't fit in the AirGraver handpiece! What's going on?
You are probably using a flat stock and/or tanged graver. You need to grind the tang to fit into the .133" nose hole in the AirGraver and then use one of the three screws in the nose to hold it there. The holder in the AirGraver nose is a .133" diameter hole. This is the size of a 3/32" square measured across the corners. Therefore 3/32" square gravers work best (as well as any shank you can fit into a .133" diameter hole.) If the tang of the gravers you are using are larger than this you will need to grind the shanks to fit.
Additionally, within the front end of the tool hole is an o-ring that is used with the rapid change system that works best with 3/32" square gravers. For other shapes you'll need to use one of the three setscrews in the nose to hold the graver. Below is information from the manual about four methods of holding gravers in the tool. A fifth method would be the quick change extensions.
1) Slip a graver in and out of the tool hole. Gravers are held from rotating or falling out of the tool hole because of the o-ring, yet they may be pulled out or pushed in easily. This works best with 3/32" square shank gravers. To prepare the tool, insert a 3/32" square graver and leave the setscrew slightly backed off from the surface of the graver. The screw acts as an index in this way and the friction of the o-ring in the front of the tool hole prevents the graver from falling out. Once the setscrew is set, it does not need to be adjusted to change gravers.
2) Utilize a thumb screw for a more secure grip. This will work with any shank graver (round or square) under .133" in size. Remove the setscrew and use the knurled thumbscrew in its place. The graver can be tightened down for a more secure grip than #1.
3) Use a set screw and wrench. This will provide the most secure hold. It will work with any shank graver (round or square) under .133" in size.
4) Remove the setscrew or thumb screw from the AirGraver's nose completely, and just slip the 3/32" square graver shanks in/out. This is similar to #1, but with the set screw completely removed. The rubber o-ring is then all that is used to hold the graver in the tool hole.
I have a great idea. Can I tell you about it?
I really appreciate all of your great suggestions! With all of the work and the new shop being built, though, I seem to be a little more forgetful than normal. It might be better for you to post your suggestions on the forum. Your ideas should be shared, and I and the other forum members would love to hear about them.
-Thanks, Steve Lindsay